Showing posts with label rules. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rules. Show all posts

Sunday, November 17, 2024

Tercios in Warlords' Pike & Shotte

 

I have played Warlord's Pike & Shotte rules lots of times. But the way the interaction of the pike and shotte units is handled by the rules always seemed somewhat generic to me. 

This is of course partly caused by the fact these units interacted with each other in numerous different ways, depending on -for example- the exact period of time and nationality of the armies. 

Nowhere is this more apparent than in the later years of the Dutch Revolt or, as we Dutch prefer to call it: the Eighty Years War. Because in this period the classical Spanish tercios clashed with the (then) modern Dutch Battallions which led to an especially spectacular result in the Battle of Nieuwpoort in 1600. 

We have played Nieuwpoort a number of times and the way the differences between the tercios and the Dutch battalions was portrayed never sat well with me.

Our Nieuwpoort table in 10mm. 


The P&S rules state (p29) that a Tercio has a large number of pike in the center and large and deep sleeves of shot on the flanks. Battallions are formed from smaller units of pike in the center and shallow and wider sleeves of shot on the flanks. But the rules offer no more more than this formation suggestion. How tercios and battalions behave is up to the players.   

So I ventured to think of a better way. 

The Spanish Tercio

Tercios as a battle formation were at the time over a century old. They grew out of the need to defend themselves against shock cavalry which requiered big (between 2000 and 3000 men) and dense formations armed with pike to repel- and supporting infantry armed with projectile weapons to counterattack cavalry. Around 1600 Tercios employed pike and shot in about a 3 to 2 ratio, although sources state that at Nieuwpoort it was actually nearly 1 on 1. 

Contemporary ilustration of the Spanish main force at Nieuwpoort. 


Against other infantry the dense pike formation could gain tremendous momentum and push opponents out of its way. 

Of course such maneuvers requiered drill and discipline to move in such a large formatrion in the first place. Maneuvers would never be fast, but at least the formation was strong and could fight in any direction.

On the other hand, they were very vulnerable to another modern weapon: artillery. To withstand that, tercios had to be extremely resilient. So tercios would have to be large, strong, multi-fronted and resilient. But should also pay the price for this by being slow and have to concentrate firepower on a relatively narrow front. Also, shotte units should be requiered not to stray too far from the pike block as to prtect themselves from cavalry. 

The Dutch Battalion

History tells us that the Dutch Battalion as introduced by Maurits in the late 1500s was very different. First they were much smaller than the tercios; between 500 and 750 men. The Dutch army was split up in many battallions, while a Spanish army was usually made up of just a few tercios. 

Battallions were extremely well drilled and could maneuver much faster and more flexible, bringing their firepower to bear where desired. While a battalion's front was narrow, their maneuverability enabled them to cover each other's flanks and widen the front where their firepower could be brought to bear. And just like a tercio they could seek cover in bastion formations with shotte covering beneath or behind the pikes. 

So in a one-on-one fight against a tercio their odds were slim. But being able to concentrate their fire and evade direct contact they could wear down a tercio until cavalry could finish the job.

So, how could this translate into rules?  

Special rules Tercio

  • A tercio is a combined formation made up of one Large or Very Large (see below) pike block and 4 Small or Standard shotte units. 
  • The Tercio may form hedgehog. 
  • All 5 units move within the following restraints:
  • The shotte always maintains contact with the pike block unless broken, disordered or shaken. This means staying within at least Support distance.
  • When separated the separated unit is obliged to seek contact with the pike block before all else.
  • The shotte may move around the pike block. For example to form a hedgehog formation, facilitate close combat for the pikes or relocate firepower.
  • Otherwise the 5 units move as one. 
  • The units support each other. A breaking unit may thus trigger more break tests. 
  • The units may be targeted, take hits and casualties individually and also make break tests individually. 
  • The Tercio counts as one target for targeting purposes. As long as a shooting unit has line of sight to a unit that is a part of the Tercio, that unit may be fired upon, disregarding the rules about closest target. 
  • Spanish Tercios are Elite 4+. 

Very Large Formation: 10 Hand-to-hand, Stamina 6

A 10mm large Tercio


Special rules Dutch Battallion

  • A formation consisting of a Standard pike block and a Standard shotte unit. 
  • The shotte unit may join in front or behind the pike block or split up and be positioned as sleeves. In all cases they operate as a Standard shotte unit. 
  • The Battallion may form hedgehog. 
  • The shotte always maintains contact with the pike block unless broken, disordered or shaken. This means staying within at least Support distance.
  • When separated the separated unit is obliged to seek contact with the pike block before all else.
  • The shotte may move around the pike block. For example to form a hedgehog formation, facilitate close combat for the pikes or relocate firepower.
  • Otherwise the 2 units move as one. 
  • The units support each other. A breaking unit may thus trigger more break tests. 
  • The units may be targeted, take hits and casualties individually and also make break tests individually. 
  • Dutch Battlions are Superbly Drilled. 
Dutch battalia seen from Nieuwpoort

How this played for us: 

We used the rules in (of course) a Nieuwpoort scenario. This played more or less as history tells us it should. 

The Dutch deployed across the beach and into the dunes with their backs to Nieuwpoort in 3 lines of 8 battalions each with their cavalry on the right and artillery up front. 

The Spanish deployed their 4 main tercios in a diamond shape opposite the Dutch, won the Initiative and started to advance, their cavalry on their left and taking their sparse artillery with them. 

The Dutch managed to concentrate their fire on the two lead tercios. While very tough, the casualties mounted in the Spanish ranks, especially when they came into range of the Dutch cannons. 

In the meantime the Spanish cavalry advanced through the dunes and came to grips with their Dutch counterpart. faring a lot better than they did historically they drove back the Dutch horse and threatened the Dutch right flank. 


On the beach however, the tercios suffered. Almost coming to grips with the Dutch, those profited from their Superbly Drilled status and withdrew at the last possible moment, leaving a fresh Dutch battle line to take the brunt. Battallions that broke were replaced from the 3rd line. The Spanish reserve tried to catch up with their cavalr on the left but failed to make enough speed. 

It could not last. 


Alreadly the first Tercio had lost its shot sleeves and failed its morale check and broke. But now the second and third suffered the same fate. Their army broken, the Spanish started to withdraw, leaving the beach to the Dutch. 





Thursday, July 29, 2021

Oathmark: A Review + Some suggestions for Houserules added

For years during the first decade of this century my go-to ruleset for wargaming was Warhammer Ancient Battles, basically Warhammer Fantasy Battles without the Fantasy. It was the best ruleset around in my not-at-all humble opinion in the sense that it was the best playable ruleset that I could find after reconnoitering horrors like DBM. It was however a clunky, typically 1990ies ruleset with lots of tinkered bits screwed on and a lot of frustrating stuff. I eyed the fantasy version of WAB but that already seemed terminally broken and cheesy.

When WAB went, I looked around for replacement. War & Conquest was promising and better, but still retained some of the frustrations and failed to attract opponents. Hail Caesar showed me that the Black Powder engine was fit more a lot of things, but not pre-firearms wargaming. It was bland and tasteless. Kings of War had nothing that intrigued me. So little showed up and over the years I sold most of my armies.



And then Oathmark was published. I succumbed to the hype, bought the rules, painted an army of dwarves that had been gathering dust for years, dug out some more fantasy stuff I had laying around and played some games. And was hooked. Why? Well, to be perfectly honest because it plays like Warhammer with the same joy and without the frustration.

The rule mechanics
The credit for this goes to the rules of course. Joseph McCullough, he of Frostgrave fame, used his thoughts on wargaming to write a mass fantasy battle system and in my opinion he has succeeded very well. And by doing this he crushed quite a lot of conventions that have ruled mass fantasy battle systems for years.



First, this is not an IGO-UGO system but has alternate activation. Players alternately activate units. So it doesn't have turn phases either. An activated unit has two actions and may move, move a lot, shoot or charge into contact and if it does so a bilateral combat occurs immediately. Activation rolls are no do-or-don't affairs. A failed Activation roll limits your actions, but still enables you to do things with that unit. These two things make it a dynamic game that constantly engages all players.

Second, Oathmark ditches Priestley's Law (Only D6 Games Will Sell) and uses D10s. Predictably this will give more gradual and less predictable results.

The rest of the mechanic seems relatively conventional. Units have stats like Move and Fight, need to roll a minimum value to succeed in things like Activation rolls and Hits and roll for Morale when taking casualties. There are the traditional races like Dwarves, Humans, Elves and Orcs and Goblins.

However, all rolls are achieved with a maximum of 5 dice, never more. Also, a Die roll always causes an immediate result. So no To Hit/To Wound/To Save sequences. Just a Defence minus Fight = Target Number roll and a success is a hit. No buckets of dice here.



The Army building
Army building is done brilliantly. There are two ways. First you can traditionally choose a race and take units from the list of units of that race (and some unaligned ones). Units have a point value so you can tailor battles to a specific point value to balance things. 

WARNING: building armies this way leaves the game open to all kinds of min-maxing tricks that will eventually completely derail the game balance!

Alternatively (and MUCH recommended!), you can build a Kingdom with a capital of a specific race, but additional territories that enable you to field units from different races as well! While other races' territories are slightly more expensive to "buy" into your Kingdom, you can take any. But not all. You can only take 10 territories out of 44 as your starting Kingdom and each territory gives you specific units of a specific race. For example Plains give you Human cavalry. I created the Kingdom of Dale/Erebor from The Hobbit this way.

The differences in races are notable. Elves tend to be expensive and extremely disciplined elite specialists, are very hard to break, will almost always activate but are never numerous. On the other end of the spectrum there are the goblins, brittle, undisciplined and mediocre at best but cheap enough to field them in hordes.

This means  that in order to create an army that excels in everything, you need to enlist different races. For anyone that learned Fantasy in a GW store, this is heretical! But if you were raised with Tolkien, all this should come easy to you. 😁

There are multiple troop types (although not all races have all troop types) like several infantry types (spearmen, linebreakers, militia etc), cavalry (heavy and light, horse and wolf) artillery and a list of aligned and unaligned monsters and creatures that either fight in small units or alone.

A unit is kind of standardized. Man-sized figures are deployed 5 rows wide and 1 to 4 ranks deep. A unit is never bigger than 20 figures. Bigger figures like trolls deploy in one rank of 3 or even alone, like Dragons. Ranks give you bonuses in To Hit roll, Morale checks and Shoot rolls, but make you more vulnerable for artillery. A good dilemma improves a game, I always say!

There are Characters, but they are not the one-man juggernauts from Warhammer. Instead, a General actually Commands units (he can activate more than just his own unit and boost Morale Checks) and Champions might at most give an extra Kill in combat or may challenge enemy officers or Champions. They actually feel and play like the troop type they are supposed to represent.


Spellcasters are powerful, but expensive characters. You can buy them in levels and the higher the level, the more spells and the more dice you may roll to cast them. But also much more expensive. Spells can only be cast once per Activation per Spellcaster, can make a powerful impression but so far have not been gamechangers.

Monsters can be very impressive, like the 800 point Winged Dragon which is practically a small army in itself. However, in a 3000 point average game it will eat up over a quarter of your points, so it better be a gamechanger. That amount of points will buy four (4!) full units of Goblin soldiers!

So how does it play? 
It plays fast. Units are not particularly fast, but they are maneuverable. This is because units may move or maneuver through obstacles as long as they can end their movement in formation and outside the obstacle. So you are spared the horrors of "clipping" and being unable to move because your unit was 2mm too wide. Besides, even failed Activation rolls enable one Move action. So there is always something happening. The game never drags. You never have to wait for something.

Combats are fast because both combatants roll simultaneously for their own Target Number and remove casualties and then one or both units move away from each other. Combat can be very bloody between unequal opponents and units with large losses will have trouble to make their Morale check. And when already Disordered (after one failure) a failed Morale check will send a unit packing.



As a player you are always engaged, since combat follows contact immediately, both players need to roll and after your opponents activates a unit you immediately are next. The game continues to flow until one of the armies breaks or retreats.

The rulebook
The rulebook is extremely well laid out. It is teeming with clarifying diagrams and subjects are usually explained in one or two page spreads (with accompanying tables) so you almost always find what you are looking for on one page spread. There are the main rules, advanced rules, scenarios and Kingdom and Army building chapters. There is a Campaign chapter that explains how your Kingdom may expand (or shrink!) during a campaign, which might give you access to new troop types. There are army lists for Dwarves, Humans, Elves, Goblins and Orcs as well as aligned and unaligned Monsters and other creatures.

A few rather important rules are a bit hidden away in some surprising locations in the rules, so read them really well (which is always a good thing by the way). It took me a while to spot the fact that a failed Activation roll wil raise your target number for shooting by +1 (which is mentioned in the bit about Simple Actions rather than Shooting) and I needed someone to point out to me that a so far unactivated unit that has been engaged in combat i.e. has been attacked cannot Activate anymore in that turn (which is mentioned in Activation rather than Combat).

It is a visually pleasing book too. 192 full colour pages with lots of pictures, paintings and drawings bound in hard cover.




The miniatures? 
While there is a line of Oathmark miniatures from North Star anythings goes really.

This might however be the place to say something about basing. Oathmark bases human-sized figures on 25x25mm and bigger figures on 25x50, 50x50 or 50x100. So a unit front is either 50, 125 or 150mm wide. This already tells you that front width is not extremely important, just handy.

Don't rebase your 20x20 or 25/round stuff. The important thing is to remember that a unit frontage is 5, 3 or 1 figure wide (depending  on the size of the figure). In combat the attacking officer always lines up in the middle of the frontage he is attacking with his unit. Maneuvering units may move through obstacles as long as they don't end on top of them. So the exact width of a unit is not very important. At most, a unit of 5 20mm bases wide can deploy in a 100mm corridor instead of a 125mm one. I have yet to see that happen.

So don't rebase or get hung up on base sizes. No need. 




What could be better? 
The book made it out of the printing process with some printing mistakes. The Oathmark players' Facebook page has an errata list. An official one is in the works. Nothing to get upset about.

Overall Oathmark seems to have been quite well tested. So far players have only found one Spell that seems to invite abuse (Smoke) as well as one rule (Making Room on page 34, see below for a possible solution). The rest of the game seems to work very well and as intended although those intentions are not always to anyone's taste, but well, wargamers will be wargamers.

The Conclusion
An extremely enjoyable mass fantasy wargame. It will capture my attention for quite a while to come. Extremely recommended!!!

The Sequel?
Three additional books are published at this time and reviewed here.

EDIT October 29th 2020: Dragons
The consensus seems to be emerging that Dragons are Oathmark's equivalent of the nuclear ICBM i.a.w. unbeatable by anything except another Dragon. We played one game so far with Dragons on both sides. The Dragons mainly fought each other, but when they didn't, they were indeed lethal against other units. However, although killing them with something other than another Dragon is hard, pinning them in place is relatively easy, thus neutralizing quite a large amount of points while you can defeat the rest of the enemy's army. 

EDIT March 16th 2021: Artillery
Some words about artillery. Having played a number of games I have noticed, as have others, the effectiveness of artillery. And not only catapults and such but long-range magic as well. When playing a slow moving army on an open plain (a really classic setup after all) against an Artillery- and Magic rich army your army will be severely held up and weakened along the way, only to be massacred when finally in contact. Artillery is very effective, especially in combination with artillery-enhancing or -replacing spells. 

This not a fault IMO. Rather it forces you to play accordingly and choose your tactics and battlefield better. You will need screening units and cover against long-range fire. Gaming tables will need -and feature- surprising amounts of terrain after a while. 

Playing Oathmark is in that respect actually more like late 19th century warfare than Ancient or Medieval. 

In a world of magically enhanced artillery, no general worth his salt would consider advancing slowly over an open plain. The results would be predictably disastrous. And in Oathmark, they are. So take note. This is Fantasy wargaming after all! 

EDIT July 29th 2021: Some suggestions for Houserules

After a few dozen games and a new Errata and FAQ edition I thought it time to give my views on Oathmark Houserules. Oathmark is a good ruleset, but not without problems. Fortunately the designer encourages tinkering so no problem needs to stay unsolved! 

First, the most recent FAQ at this moment is to be found here. I think this has some problems as well, to be addressed below.

Dispelling
This spell may be cast on any unit and lifts the effects of an earlier spell cast on that unit. 

Unfortunately, some Spells are not cast on units and are therefore invulnerable to any countermeasure. Some rather significant examples are Smoke and Looking Glass, which will usually bother you the entire game.  Especially Smoke invites abuse this way (for example, a unit standing right behind the Smoke can never be Charged from the front, as the attacker has no LOS through the Smoke and may not approach because the distance would be less than the minimum of 1"), so we thought this needed the following Houserule: 

All Spells can be Dispelled, unless the Spell description explicitly tells you it can't (like Mud). 

Making room for an attack
On page 34 you will find the next paragraph of text: 

In rare cases it may be necessary to move a unit that is not involved in the combat slightly to make room. In this case move the unit directly backwards until it is at least 1"away from the currently active unit. 

To be honest we never used this. But its potential for abuse and bizarre game effects is immense. 

Apart from the fact that it doesn't describe what "rare" is supposed to mean and conversely you can actually use the rule all the time, this makes it extremely hard to shield any of your units from attacks as long as the attacker has LOS to his intended target. It also makes it extremely hard to block an attack by placing your units in your opponent's way of Move or Maneuver, as long as he has LOS to his intended target.

After all, the attacker can simply oblige you to move your shielding unit backwards until it is out of the way so that he can attack the unit behind it and can now maneuver unhindered because your unit hindering him simply moves backwards. As long as your unit can move backwards, it apparently is obliged to do so. 

This completely removes any motivation to maintain battle lines (which are of course meant to prevent just such a thing) and the idea that a unit would simply move out of the way to make room for an attack on its neighbor is too weird even for fantasy. To make problems even bigger this rule made it possible to hugely abuse the flanking rule and gave cause to another weird FAQ adaptation (see below).

From the moment that I discovered this paragraph I have been completely baffled by its possible purpose so I contacted the author for clarification. As it turns out the rule was meant for the situation that: 
a) the attacker moves to charge and makes contact with its intended target
b) the attacker's unit must now be placed flush against the target unit
c) but can't since another enemy unit blocks this. 
d) so this enemy unit is moved backwards etc.  

To be honest, knowing this, I still think the rule is unnecessary. When an attacker does not fit against the target unit I'd say that the charge should be considered blocked.  The target unit is then simply too well shielded. 

So my suggestion would be to completely disregard the paragraph on Making Room on page 34.

If you do insist on using this rule, I think it should actually have been written down like this: 

In case an attacking unit has already made contact with its target but cannot be placed flush against the target due to another enemy unit not involved in the combat it may be necessary to move that last unit slightly to make room. In this case move the unit directly backwards until it is at least 1"away from the currently active unit. 

It still leaves to be desired though. What if the unit that makes room bumps into an obstacle or another friendly unit? Does this make the charge impossible or is this a pushback? It just causes more questions. Better to disregard it completely. 

Flanking and rear attacks
The rulebook on pages 34 and 35 gives pretty clear rules on when a unit attacks a flank or a rear. The front, flank and rear quadrants are found by drawing diagonals through the unit's "footprint". When you attack a unit, which must always be done by a Move straight forward, the moment of contact and the location of your unit's officer determine in which quadrant you attack. 

Unfortunately, the "making room" rule opened this up to immense abuse. Imagine your unit is facing an enemy unit A right in front of it at a few inches distance. To your right front is another enemy unit B. Now you announce that you want to wheel to the right and attack unit B. This is impossible, since the unit A in front of you is in the way, so you move that backwards until completely out of the way with the help of the Make Room Rule. You are now positioned in the flank of unit B and proceed to flank attack that unit. 

To solve this, the designer did not simply trash the Make Room Rule (like he should have done IMO). 
Instead he completely rewrote the rules for Flanking and Rear attacks. Now the start of the Charge (whatever that may mean) and the location of the officer determine the quadrant in which the attack takes place. Firstly, this makes it necessary to painstakingly measure in which quadrant the charge starts. 

Also you can now have a unit with a narrow front starting its charge inside the flank quadrant of the target unit and, due to its movement direction at the start of the charge, ending up entirely in the front quadrant at the moment of contact, only to be then dragged around the target unit until ending up on the flank. 

Finally, the attacker from the example above can still force unit A backwards, wheel to the right and attack unit B. Only now the attacker is making a "frontal" attack, as this is where his officer usually starts (I think, since it is unclear whether the Charge "starts" with the Wheel or with the Move Forward) and is dragged to the front of unit B. Thus having essentially now made a charge by moving more than a full move to the right, which is normally not allowed. It boggles the mind.... 

Suffice to say that in my not at all humble opinion this creates even more complications, unclarities and weird situations. So ironically my suggested Houserule is to play the Flanking and Rear attack rules simply from the book and: 

To completely disregard the first two Q&A's from the "Other" paragraph from the FAQ as well as disregard the paragraph on Making Room on page 34 of the rulebook. 



Oathmark: Battles of the Lost Age
Joseph McCullough
hardcover
Osprey Publishing

Saturday, November 21, 2020

Danger Close modern skirmish rules: a review

Writing a wargaming ruleset is in itself not very difficult. Writing a good one is. Writing a compact good ruleset is downright hard. So when I came upon the 2nd version of Empress Miniatures' rules and found out they were all of 4 pages (vehicle stat charts excluded) my curiosity was piqued! 


How does it look?

Danger Close can be bought as a 4-page booklet or a PDF. I bought the latter and also added the (free!) vehicle stat charts as well as a blank one to add your own. 

The pages are densely packed with text and tables. To my amazement the rules essentially cover only 2 pages. The next two are used to display the vehicle rules which are a variation on the infantry rules of page 1 and 2. Given the very limited size of this ruleset it is no surprise that it lacks any pictures or explanatory diagrams. 

System & mechanics

DC is a (kind of) alternate turn skirmish system meant for games with a few dozen figures and some vehicles. Turn sequence is determined by troop quality, the best activating first. Troop quality also determines how many figures you may Activate in your turn as well as maximizes the number of actions a figure has per activation, the best having more actions. So a figure might perform 2 to 5 actions per activation and can be activated once per turn. Finally, troop quality gives modifiers based on the difference in quality between opponents in spotting your opponents, shooting in a firefight or combat. So better troops move sooner, can do more and are more effective in combat and firefights.  All based on one stat. Very elegant. 



When your number of figures have exhausted their actions, it is your opponent's turn. And so on, until all figures have been activated and a new turn starts. 

Shooting requires Spotting first. Once having spotted your target, you can shoot at it, using a D20 +/-modifiers based on the situation and trying to beat the minimum score. A hit will result in an injury (roll a second D20) or a miss, which still causes stress. 

Stress is the currency of Morale in this game. The game knows only two Morale classes: Regular and Insurgent. Figures acquire Stress from being fired upon. All Stressed figures must make a test before being actiovated and might end up being limited or even surrendering. There are rules added for radios, boobytraps and Casevac, 

The vehicles function about the same as a figure, but with different results for spotting and getting damaged. The vehicle rules include aircraft, AT weapons and AA weapons. 

The vehicle stat charts include modern vehicles for the US, UK, Russia, China, France and Germany, as well as a chart with modern helicopters and a Vietnam 65-75 vehicle chart. 

How does it play? 

When one expects a brief ruleset to result in a quick game, DC will surprise you. A small squad versus squad game actually took us a few hours. While Activating is straightforward and gets figures moving around the table pretty quickly, especially shooting takes up a lot of time. Not just because it is a bit labour-intensive (roll (or at least calculate) for spot +/- modifiers, roll for shoot +/- modifiers, roll for injury) but because it is quite hard to hit something! 

Since the target number is 17+ and the best positive modifier is a +3 you still need a 14+ to hit. So most shots miss and only result in Stress. We had one soldier standing in the open acquiring 12 Stress from getting shot at, failing his test, duck away and start without Stress all over again next turn! That way it takes a while to get decisive results. 

This may be a conscious choice (it usually takes an average few hundred bullets to kill an enemy these days) but it might not be everybody's idea of a fun game. 

Morale checks are quick and easy but tend to give temporary results. There is no gradual deterioration of a force through loss of Morale. 

You have to fill in a number of things that are not explained or expanded upon because of the briefness of the ruleset. Definitions of things like Overwatch, "obscured" and range (measuring from what to what?) are not included. How to place terrain, muster your forces or write a scenario are skills you have to bring yourself. 

What is good? 

For compactness and price this game wins everything hands down. The ruleset is clear and brief and logically structured. Being essentially only 2 pages long, it does not need an index. Just turn the page. 

Activation and Morale are quick and easy and the quality difference between troops is done very elegantly. There is hardly any bookkeeping needed besides Stress, injuries and Overwatch. 

What could be better? 

The shooting sequence is a bit laborious and ineffective. This made our game last a while. This might be realistic, but perhaps not to everyone's taste. 

This game works with modifiers. A lot of them. Because of the 4-pages format modifiers are grouped together by impact. So for example all reasons to apply a +2 to shooting are grouped together in 1 line. This makes it a bit hard to find a specific reason sometimes. However, after a few games these things will probably get stuck in your memory.  

There is another caveat. This set is so compact that it only gives rules and explains nothing. This can be left out assuming the player is familiar with the way a wargame works, how Moves are measured for example or what something like "obscured" is supposed to mean. There are no scenarios or rules to set up a table. Al these things are absolutely no problem for experienced players but this might make the set less suitable for a beginner. 

A quote from a regular player: 

"That’s a really fair review! I’ve been using the rules for a while (unsurprising as my regular opponent is Paul from Empress  ) and I’ve come to really like them. The key, I find, is to regard them as a tool kit you can build upon as you want. For example, I’ve used them with up to 100 figures but initiating at “section” rather than individual figure level. If you want a faster game try adjusting the number required to hit downwards? It’s your game so adjust as suits you? They key thing is to enjoy what you’re doing!"

Danger Close: Modern skirmish wargame rules, version 2
4 pages (+ 6 pages of vehicle stats)
Empress Miniatures

See also https://empress-miniatures.forumotion.com/



Saturday, April 29, 2017

Better wargames on grounds of Terrain....

“The strategy for employing the military is this: There is dispersive terrain, light terrain, contentious terrain, traversable terrain, focal terrain, heavy terrain, entrapping terrain, and fatal terrain.

-Sun Tzu –

Even back in the day good old Sun-Tzu had some interesting things to say about the ways terrain could work for you in a battle. And unsurprisingly history is dotted with examples where terrain played a crucial and determining role in the outcome of battles and wars. This should teach wargamers something valuable: terrain can enhance your games!



I will not go into the visual aspect of terrain (i.e. how to make your gaming table look better) as rows of books have already been devoted to that. Instead, I will address terrain as a means to make your game more interesting!

It goes downhill from here on.…
While terrain may serve as an objective, we can do so much more with it. Instead, let’s place a hill. Instantly lines of sight change as a large obstacle blocks them. 



Movement is hampered as moving uphill might slow figures down. And especially if an enemy has already settled on top of it climbing the hill is particularly unattractive, as this enemy defends high ground (+2 Attack roll or something). Suddenly simply moving across the table has become something to reconsider.

Speed limits and dead ends
Rivers, steep cliffs and walls might simply block movement and force troops in other directions. A swamp might slow movement down to a crawl while not offering any particular cover, yet offering the enemy ample time to shoot at your poor mud-sloggers. Then again, should the enemy use it to secure his flanks, or to hide behind? Spicy dilemmas abound!



Terrain might discriminate between troops. While infantry may cross woods relatively easy cavalry cannot enter woods at all as anyone who has ever been swiped off his horse by a low tree branch can testify! This causes more tactical considerations.

Terrain might offer benefits, as troops might move faster over roads than they would through a field. This of course channels your troops along certain predictable routes. It offers you the -always interesting- choice between speed and surprise.



All this of course serves to make the intellectual challenge of a game more interesting. Even without writing detailed game scenarios a pitched battle (allegedly the most played type of wargame ever!) can be made very complex by placing some woods, hills and marshes.

Good terrain rules!
Should you rules contain no specific terrain rules, I suggest by all means make them yourself!
Let’s look at a corn field. Or rather: through it. You can’t, at least not very far. So field of view in a cornfield would not be blocked, but severely limited. This should influence the chance to hit someone walking in a cornfield with a ranged weapon, as a target that is far enough away might just as well stand behind a wall.



On the other hand, unlike a wall a cornfield offers zero protection against ranged weapons once someone has drawn a bead on you. Explosions in a cornfield will hurt the target just like it would in an open field.  So a cornfield would influence a to Hit roll, just like a wall would, but not a Save (if your rules know such a thing) unlike a wall unable to stop the projectiles hurled at you. 

This would offer a more interesting variety of terrain rules than say: terrain is either Difficult (Movement penalty and cover) or not. That way it will actually become both useful as well as pretty to invest in some good crops on the table!

There’s something moving over there….
While terrain is usually static, it does not need to be. Smoke and fog might float across the table creating a moving blockade for view. (Sky)ships can really be moving pieces of terrain from which figures shoot or fight. A moving bridge is a very simple example.



There is only a fine line between figures and moving terrain. Stampeding herds of cattle are little more than moving terrain creating dangers for your little soldiers. Shambling zombies moving on “automated” movement- and reaction rules are actually terrain that can move as well as fight! 



“Get to the choppa!”
So simply by choosing and placing terrain, we can direct or at least influence movement of troops, create dilemmas and choices and create an interesting game scenarios without actually having to write one.



One of the most successful games I ever played is a simple VTOL evacuation mission where the 
Rescuers have to pick up the Objective before the Hunters capture it. The Objective must be collected and escorted to a landing zone and evacuated by air from a landing spot at least a foot wide. There are several such spots on the table, all several turns of movement away from the Objective. That’s all. So far the scenario has always been lost or won by a hair’s width.

I hope I have inspired you to make more use of terrain. Not only does it look better than a green sheet with a lonely tree, but it makes for better games as well!


Tuesday, August 2, 2016

The Barsoom Project: Sky ship rules! Boarding rules added!

Just to share and to inspire. All feedback is welcome!


Sky Ships of Barsoom
These rules are written with Witchfinder General or En Garde! in mind, but are actually quite generic. They assume ships are ponderous moving pieces of terrain, from which the figures take their actions. For nautical ships, simply ignore all rules regarding altitude, descending and ascending.

Turn sequence:
Ships move before all figures in the Ship Phase, giving these the chance to react to their movement. Ships roll for Initiative, the highest result moving first. Ships execute their Movement options alternatively, starting with the player with Initiative and his first option, then the second player with his first option, then the Initiative player with his second option et cetera until all are executed. After all ship movement is done, the standard WFG phases start.

Movement
Ships may execute three movement actions from the following options: Ahead, Reverse, Turn right, Turn left, Stop, Descend or Ascend. The players must plot these in advance for a turn, by choosing Movement Cards from the deck and revealing these in turn. The card deck contains:
- 3 x Ahead (move Speed number in inches forward)
- 1 x Reverse (move Speed number in inches backward)
- 2 x Turn right (up to 45 degrees)
- 2 x Turn left (up to 45 degrees)
- 3 x Stop
- 3 x Descend (lose 1 level of altitude)
- 1 x Ascend (gain 1 level of altitude)
- 1 x Extra Ascend (for small ships)

Ships are free to choose these options in any order with the following restrictions:
·         A ship may only Ascend once per turn, unless specifically stated otherwise in the ship’s stats
·         A ship must precede any turn with a Ahead of Reverse move, unless specifically stated otherwise in the ship’s stats
·         A ship may only Reverse once per turn, unless specifically stated otherwise in the ship’s stats
·         A ship must make a stop between Ahead and Reverse moves and vice versa.

Ships may descend to ground level and thereby Land. However, if a ship involuntarily hits ground level, it is a Crash (landing). Crashed ships roll a d10 on the Damage table for every preceding consecutive Descend move.

Ships that move into unintended contact with another ship Collide. Colliding ships roll a d10 on the Damage table for every preceding Ahead move leading up to the Collision. Ships Colliding with each other head-on add up their Ahead/Reverse moves.
Ships that move their bow or stern into intended contact with another ship Ram. Ramming ships roll a d10 -2 on the Damage table for every preceding Ahead move leading up to the Ram. Ships Ramming each other head-on add up their Ahead/Reverse moves. The Rammed ship rolls a D10+2 on the Damage table.

Ships which are Out of control due to steering damage, incapacitated helmsmen or other reasons will execute two random Movement options per turn and then Descend one level.

Ships may get in each other’s way without colliding, due to altitude differences. In that case move both bases aside until the bases will fit into contact on the table.

Combat:
In terms of combat, ships are terrain over which figures may move within the restrictions of that terrain.
Ship-borne weapons fire in the Activation Phase of the figures that operate them.
Figures may freely cross over to another ship when and where:
- the ships make contact
- the ships are no more than 3 inches apart lengthwise and/or heightwise
In all other cases figures may attempt to jump on the other ship. Roll an extra D6 for movement. If the distance rolled is insufficient, the figure will either miss his target and fall to the ground level or (when jumping down on a ship directly below) take a hit when landing.

Ship's armament
Ships carry armament of three types: Light, Medium and Heavy. All fixed Guns have a 45 degree up and down elevation.

Range modifiers for En Garde!:
·         Under 18”                     +0
·         Between 18 and 36”      -1
·         Between 36 and 54”      -2
·         Over 54”                       -3

·         Heavy weapons can harm all ships and may fire as normal on ships. A Heavy weapon hit on a ship may result in 1 or more rolls on the Damage table, depending on the weapon. Firing heavy weapons on crew comes with a -2 To Hit modifier and any hit results in a Kill. Heavy guns always need to reload for one turn. Examples are 2-pounder cannon, Martian shock cannon and all heavier stuff.
Range 72”

·         Medium Weapons get a -2 modifier on the Damage Table against ships. They may fire on crew as normal with a +3 benefit to the Wound roll. 

Roll all to hit rolls for automatic weapons (use multicoloured dice to avoid confusion) at once. Two or more results of 1 mean the weapon must be reloaded/unjammed for one turn.
Examples are Bombs, Quick firing cannon and Martian Pulse guns.
Range 60”

·         Light weapons cannot harm ships and may fire as normal on crew. E.g. hand weapons and normal machine guns. Roll all to hit rolls for automatic weapons (use multicoloured dice to avoid confusion) at once. Two or more results of one mean the weapon must be reloaded/unjammed for one turn.
Examples are Gardner or Nordenfelt Machineguns, grenades and all hand weapons.
Range 48”

Bombs and grenades:
Grenades may be thrown as per the rules. Bombs (+2 Wound benefit) are too heavy to throw and may only be dropped straight down. A succesful To Hit roll is still required (+2 on all stationary targets).

Damage:
All damage to ships is determined by a d10 roll on the Damage table. Damage is rolled if called for at the end of the Ship Phase and during the turn. Apply results immediately. For En Garde, determine hits as normal: roll 2D6 – 6 +/- modifiers. Ignore all movement modifiers. A positive result is a hit.
·         Stunned           : roll one DED and apply results immediately
·         Light Hit           : roll 1D10 on the Damage table and apply results immediately
·         Grievous Hit     : roll 2D10 on the Damage table and apply results immediately

·         Critical Hit        : roll 3D10 on the Damage table and apply results immediately

Damage Table

1 No Effect
2 Descend one level. If already on the ground: roll again. Ignore a second result of 1.
3 Lose the ability to Reverse. Discard the Reverse option. May be Repaired. Roll DED.
4 Lose the ability to ascend. Discard the Ascend option. If already on the ground, the ship is stranded. May be Repaired. Roll DED.
5 Turning ability impaired. Discard a random Turn option. May be Repaired. Roll DED.
6 Control damage. From now on the ship has one less Movement option per turn. May be Repaired. Roll DED.
7 Speed loss. Discard one Ahead option. May be Repaired. Roll DED.
8 Lose one weapon on the side the damage was caused from. Ship owner’s choice. May not be Repaired. Roll DED.
9 A Fire breaks out on board. Succesfull Repairs will extinghuish it. A Fire causes one roll on this table per turn. 
10 Only valid when rolled twice in the same turn: the ship’s hull integrity is destroyed and it is wrecked crashing to the ground. May not be Repaired.

Make a Damage Effect Die (DED) with 2 Stops, 2 Arrows and 2 Turns. Roll in addition to Damage Effects 3 to 8. Result dictates immediate (additional) move of the ship on top of the plotted Move of that turn. Roll DED.

Optional rule: 
When manoeuvering, ships may opt to ignore Movement restrictions. This however comes with risks for the ships construction. A ship may only ignore ONE restriction per turn, execute the Move, immediately roll a D10 for Damage and add its effect to the Move.

Boarding
Crews may board other ships and may Grapple with them within throwing range. This will connect both grappled ships. Appoint crewmembers as (un)grapplers. Roll 1D6 per crewmember. A 6 is a successful (un)grapple. (Un)grapplers may not do anything else in that turn. Grappled ships of equal size may only execute 1 Movement option, which the other ship must follow (but may counter with its own Movement Option). Countered moves (i.e. 1 Ascend vs 1 Descend) cancel each other. In all other cases the smaller ship simply follows the larger ship.

In addition to side-by-side boarding boarders may also grapple ships no more than 3 height levels below it by dropping down the distance with no risk of damage by using abseil or vertical grappling lines. 

Repairs:
Some Damage results may be Repaired. Select a number of crewmembers for the Repair crew and move them to a central location. Roll 1D6 for each crewmember selected. As soon as three results of 6 have been rolled the damage is repaired. Repair crews may do nothing else during the turn that they are repairing. Crew members may leave or join the Repair crew during the repairs. Rolled 6s are saved.

Ship classes:
Ships may be divided into three classes:
·         Capital ships: Speed 4. May descend 2 levels in one turn before landing without having to roll for damage, due to their heavy construction. May carry D6 bombs and all the crew that will fit.
·         Medium ships: Speed 6. May carry D3 bombs and all the crew that will fit.

·         Small craft: Speed 8, Ascend 2 levels/turn, 2 Turns/Forward. Light weapons may damage them (-4 on the DT). All Heavy weapon hits are +1 on the DT. May carry 1 bomb and all the crew that will fit.

EDIT: 


An excellent question from Roger: 


Hi there, i have just been reading your Sky ships of Barsoom rules on your blog. Could you tell me where I can find the ship stats?

The ships do not have stats as such. The standard Movement rate per Move is usually 6". But it may be varied. So fast ships may move 8"per Move and if I ever become crazy enough to build me a dreadnought it might move only 4". 
 
The Movement cards provide movement and manoeuverability and when all three slots are destroyed, the ship cannot manoeuver anymore. It will still take damage so Damage Effect Dice will be rolled which will result in loss of altitude and eventually a crash. When a ship hits the ground involuntarily it will be required to roll for more damage and this will destroy all means to move. The ship will in effect become a wreck until repaired.
 
Since these ship rules are meant to use ships as moving terrain for a skirmish game, the “indestructability” of the hulls is intentional. It means the crew can still function (and be played with). 
 
Only two 10s on the Damage Effect table in the same turn will destroy the ship completely and result in it being an irreparable wreck. But it will not destroy the ship and its crew.
 
So there are no ship stats.